The Un-Filters 401 Chapter 7
How Much Copper is Needed, and How Do We Get There?
Too much of anything can be injurious, and copper is no exception. The copper ions have to be maintained at a level that just suppresses algae without overdosing. High levels of copper (or salt, or fish food for that matter) could potentially harm fish and ornamental plants. Copper ions work best to control algae in a narrow range between 0.1 and 0.3 parts per million, with minimal adverse effects on other plants, fish or beneficial bacteria.
Proper regulation of ionization rate is critical, and a well-designed Ionizer makes this easy. For example, the sealed, waterproof TRITON Control Module pictured allows for precise adjustment of the microcurrent that creates the ions in increments of 10%, and also monitors the conductivity of the water as well. The “Ionization” LED blinks if the water isn’t conductive enough for the electrical charge to cross the gap between the electrodes. When a high enough level of conductivity is present, the light will shine steadily. If the water is so pure that it is non-conductive, a conductor (typically a small amount of salt) must be added for the Ionizer to function. Salt water is an ideal conductor, even at minimal concentrations. The general rule of thumb is a maximum of one pound of salt per hundred gallons, a .12% solution which is actually beneficial to fish by reducing osmatic pressure (a very separate issue) but that may be tough on water lilies, so start with half that to get conductivity levels up. (Remember the salt is in there forever unless the water gets changed, so ‘less is more’ in this case.) Once the Ionization LED is steadily lit, the level of ionization is reflected by the percentage on the display. If the unit will only display low levels of ionization, say 30 or 40% instead of 100%, then more salt should be slowly added, up to but not exceeding the .12% salinity level, until full ionization is achieved.
Too much of anything can be injurious, and copper is no exception. The copper ions have to be maintained at a level that just suppresses algae without overdosing. High levels of copper (or salt, or fish food for that matter) could potentially harm fish and ornamental plants. Copper ions work best to control algae in a narrow range between 0.1 and 0.3 parts per million, with minimal adverse effects on other plants, fish or beneficial bacteria.
Proper regulation of ionization rate is critical, and a well-designed Ionizer makes this easy. For example, the sealed, waterproof TRITON Control Module pictured allows for precise adjustment of the microcurrent that creates the ions in increments of 10%, and also monitors the conductivity of the water as well. The “Ionization” LED blinks if the water isn’t conductive enough for the electrical charge to cross the gap between the electrodes. When a high enough level of conductivity is present, the light will shine steadily. If the water is so pure that it is non-conductive, a conductor (typically a small amount of salt) must be added for the Ionizer to function. Salt water is an ideal conductor, even at minimal concentrations. The general rule of thumb is a maximum of one pound of salt per hundred gallons, a .12% solution which is actually beneficial to fish by reducing osmatic pressure (a very separate issue) but that may be tough on water lilies, so start with half that to get conductivity levels up. (Remember the salt is in there forever unless the water gets changed, so ‘less is more’ in this case.) Once the Ionization LED is steadily lit, the level of ionization is reflected by the percentage on the display. If the unit will only display low levels of ionization, say 30 or 40% instead of 100%, then more salt should be slowly added, up to but not exceeding the .12% salinity level, until full ionization is achieved.
